Finding the right groom’s suit for a London wedding means more than choosing between black tie and morning dress. At Favourbrook on Pall Mall, the approach is different: a proper fitting where grooms work through options on their body, and where cut and cloth are personalised and explained by an expert stylist.
Favourbrook has established itself as the authority on formalwear for occasions – the house that dresses grooms. Founded in 1993, it began with waistcoats made from ecclesiastical silks and has since expanded into a comprehensive wardrobe for weddings. The Pall Mall emporium now houses over 800 waistcoats, 1,000 bow ties, and a fabric room where bespoke commissions are discussed over cloth sourced from northern English mills and Italian silk weavers. Through a one-to-one styling process, Favourbrook gives grooms the chance to experiment with texture, colour, and silhouette in a way that off-the-rack formalwear rarely permits.
Tom Couch, a groom-to-be planning a black tie wedding at a London hotel, tried six looks during his fitting, from classic morning suits to contemporary tailoring and statement jackets. “I always try to wear what I know suits me – fit and size-wise – rather than what is ‘on trend ‘. For my wedding, I want to be classic and elegant, but with a twist’,” he says. “And, as everyone on their wedding day, I want to feel the best I have ever felt. An amazing outfit can do that for you.”
Look 1: The Classic Morning Suit
The morning suit is the most formal groom’s wedding suit available, and its appeal is precisely that: it doesn’t equivocate. Black morning coat, grey cashmere stripe trousers, waistcoat. It’s a uniform, but at Favourbrook, there is considerable room for nuance.
The first decision is configuration. The traditional route pairs a black coat with cashmere stripe trousers; a lighter alternative swaps those for grey houndstooth, better for summer weddings or destination venues.
For Tom, fit is paramount. “I always try to dress proportionally to my height and size. I don’t want to feel drowned in the clothes. I was always taught, ‘You should wear the clothes; the clothes shouldn’t wear you.’” Indeed, for a morning suit, fit matters more than fabric, and the shoulder is where it counts most: there’s limited scope for alteration here, so get it right from the start. The coat’s tails should end around the back of the knee and sleeves should show about three-quarters of an inch of shirt cuff.
Look 2: The Contemporary Suit
A contemporary suit (softer in tailoring, modern in cut) brings structure without rigidity. Think unstructured shoulders, a natural waist, and a slim-but-not-skinny silhouette in wool or wool-blend cloth. It works particularly well for registry office ceremonies or intimate London venues where morning dress might feel excessive and black tie premature.
But that’s not to say you can’t update traditional morning dress with a contemporary choice: a two-or three-piece morning suit in navy works beautifully for glamorous evening venues. Braces are another option worth considering: as high-waisted trousers return to favour, braces do the work a belt can’t and add detail without fuss. Or go for a popular vintage-inflected style, like a 70s extra large frill shirt. Favourbrook’s off-the-peg shirt styles are some of the best available.
For Tom, the balance between individuality and tradition matters. “I think a mix of the two is perfect, especially when I reflect on my style and personality versus the venue I’ve chosen to get married in.”
Look 3: The Summer Look
The sprezzatura of a linen suit is difficult to beat for summer weddings. The fabric,woven from flax, is light and breathable, with a texture that shows its natural origins: slight irregularities in the weave and a tendency to crease gently. It’s smart without being stiff, comfortable without looking casual.
Favourbrook’s linen offering centres on the Ebury jacket this season: single-button, peak lapel, cut with a natural waist that doesn’t pull or constrict. Paired with matching dress trousers, the suit is versatile enough to work with a shirt and tie and has life beyond the wedding, worn more casually with a simple white T-shirt. Darker tones such as indigo or olive lend themselves to smarter events, while the pastels, like sky blue or oatmeal, work for a more relaxed aesthetic.
Linen waistcoats are worth considering too. With morning dress or a tailored suit, look to Favourbrook’s Culcross double-breasted waistcoats, which are available in sky blue, sage green, pink, and coral, and feature elegant piping.
Look 4: The Daytime Look
For ceremonies held in daylight hours – particularly those in gardens, marquees, or country houses – a lighter suit offers formality without the weight of traditional morning dress and the evening associations of black tie. Tom tried Favourbrook’s oatmeal linen: a single-button jacket with natural shoulders and a relaxed silhouette, paired with a patterned silk tie in slate blue and coral.
The appeal is in the balance: Light enough to photograph well in natural light, structured enough to hold its shape through a ceremony and reception, and breathable enough to wear comfortably outdoors. Linen’s natural texture – slight irregularities in the weave, a tendency to crease gently – reads as considered rather than casual, especially when tailored properly.
The colour matters here. Oatmeal, sand, and pale grey work well for spring and summer weddings, where darker tones can look heavy in photographs. Navy or charcoal linen suits evening ceremonies, but for daytime events, lighter shades feel more appropriate to the setting.
Look 5: The Modern Black Tie
Tom knew he wanted to wear black tie before he arrived. “I know I wanted a version of black tie as this is the dress code for our wedding. I am getting married in a beautiful hotel in London which perfectly suits this style. As soon as I tried on the black tie suit, I knew this was the look I wanted to get married in. Personally, I don’t think there is anything more elegant.”
Indeed, black tie weddings have become increasingly popular, and for good reason – the look is glamorous, smart, and offers a svelte silhouette. It offers flexibility; many grooms wear a morning suit for the ceremony and formalities, then change into a tuxedo for dinner and dancing. Brides have been doing this for years, and there’s no reason grooms shouldn’t follow suit.
The classic format (black tuxedo jacket, satin stripe trousers, pleated dress shirt, bow tie) is much beloved for a reason. But there are variations at Favourbrook: an embellished silk dinner jacket, or velvet, both of which inject colour, texture, and personality without abandoning the formality of the occasion.
Look 6: The Statement Jacket
Tom tried Favourbrook’s white embroidered statement jacket. “Whilst it might not be something I would have necessarily have picked off the rack, the jacket was so beautifully made, it fit like a glove and looked effortlessly chic,” he says. “The white jacket definitely inspired me and I would love to explore a variety of outfits with a similar style/combination.”
For weddings with a lounge suit dress code, most men reach for navy or charcoal. There’s nothing wrong with that, but Favourbrook can go one better – velvet and corduroy, for instance, offer a richness that plain wool doesn’t, and they transition easily from day to night, with wearability for evening events beyond the wedding.
The Artist Jacket takes its cue from the chore jacket worn by 19th-century French labourers, and elevates it further; cotton velvet, a Nehru collar, antique brass buttons, and a paisley lining, for added refinement and play.
The experience has changed how he thinks about wedding style. “I know for certain now that I would like something classic but a little different. Whether it’s detailing on the jacket, an accessory, or a different fit of suit – it’s going to be one of a kind. The girls get to have fun; why can’t the men?”
Advice
Tom’s advice to grooms is straightforward. “Start with what you like, rather than what you think you should wear, and go from there. You should feel confident and comfortable. Also, allow it to be a process. I fear a number of grooms just want to get it sorted, but they are also allowed to take their time.”
And on comfort: “Find trousers that fit nicely, and a shirt and jacket that aren’t too tight. There is nothing worse than sitting at your own wedding dinner and feeling like you are bursting out of your trousers or your jacket is swamping you.”
To book an appointment visit: favourbrook.com
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