If Sloane Square had a heartbeat, it would be Colbert. A brasserie that feels less like a restaurant and more like Chelsea’s elegant living room, where mornings blur into martinis, and lunch into late-night digestifs, all beneath the steady gaze of the Royal Court Theatre.
What stands today opened its doors in October 2012 under the creative vision of Jeremy King and Chris Corbin, a vibrant homage to Parisian boulevard cafés on the historic site that was once home to the Oriel, a restaurant quietly shuttered after the Earl of Cadogan’s famously disappointing lunch.
This corner of Chelsea has seen it all. The land once belonged to Sir Hans Sloane before passing to the Cadogan family in the 18th century. Today, the interiors are an assured mix of Belle Époque charm and London polish. Mosaic floors, bentwood chairs, red banquettes and a warm glow that flatters absolutely everyone. It is hard not to feel like you have arrived somewhere properly special.
At the helm of the kitchen is Sascha Rieb, a quietly brilliant presence. His career has taken him from the classic dining rooms of Rules and The Bleeding Heart to the buzzy energy of The Wolseley group. He brings with him not just technical skill but that rare knack for knowing what people want to eat and how they want to feel while eating it. Rieb has been part of the Colbert story since 2019, and under his guidance the food is as sure footed and as charming as the room itself.
And the crowd. This is where Chelsea old guard and glossy young things happily co exist. Cashmere and Tod’s loafers, artfully creased shirts, a Céline tote resting against the legs of a marble table. Theatre goers drifting in post curtain down. Couples who look as if they have just stepped out of the pages of a party spread. Conversation hums, martinis clink gently and there is always the promise of another glass of Sancerre.
Begin with oysters, whether Poole Rocks or Jersey Rocks, best with champagne and the thrill of a night ahead. The prawn and avocado cocktail is pure elegance on a plate, retro without being kitsch. The entrecôte steak is as good as any in town, served with golden frites and a béarnaise that is all the things béarnaise should be. Or choose the fillet of sea bass Niçoise, light and bright, with a tomato and coriander dressing that transports you straight to the Côte d’Azur.
And pudding. Always. The tarte Tatin à la mode is the thing to share if you are feeling generous, or fight over if you are not. Buttery, caramelised, the sort of pudding that stays with you long after you leave.
Hot tip. Book a terrace table for a late sitting when Sloane Square is at its most beautiful. Order a digestif, linger and let the evening stretch out as long as you like.
To book go to: colbertrestaurant.com
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